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KOSICE

 
 
 
Slovak towns often never amount to much more than their one long main square, and even KOSICE , Slovakia's second largest city, is no exception. Rather like Bratislava, Kosice was, until relatively recently, a modest little town on the edge of the Hungarian plain. Then, in the 1950s, the communists established a giant steel works on the outskirts of the city. Forty years on, it has a population of over 250,000, a number of worthwhile museums, the best cathedral in the republic, and a lively cosmopolitanism that can be quite reassuring after a week or so in the Slovak back-of-beyond. Just 21km north of the Hungarian border, Kosice also acts as a magnet for the Hungarian community - to whom the city is known as Kassa - and the terminally underemployed Romanies of the surrounding region, lending it a diversity and vibrancy absent from small-town Slovakia, and only recently viewed as contributing positively to the town.
 
 
 

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