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FOOD AND DRINK |
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Slovak food is no-nonsense, filling fare and pretty similar to Czech
cuisine, although traces of Hungarian, Polish and Ukrainian influences
can be found in different regions
Food
The usual mid-morning Slovak snack at the bufet (stand-up canteen) is
párek , perhaps the most ubiquitous takeaway food in Central Europe, a
hot frankfurter, dipped in mustard or horseradish and served inside a
white roll. The Slovak national dish is bryndzové halusky - gnocchi with
a thick sheep's cheese sauce and crumbled grilled bacon, but Hungarian
influences are strong here, too. Goulash is very popular (although a
mild stew rather than the authentic spicy soup), as are langose - deep-fried
dough smothered in a variety of toppings.
Most menus start with soup ( polievka ), one of the country's culinary
strong points and served at both midday and evening meals. Main courses
are overwhelmingly based on pork or beef, but trout and carp are usually
featured somewhere on the menu and you may find catfish or pike-perch if
you're lucky, and occasionally lamb. Most main courses are served with
delicious potatoes ( zemiaky ) - but fresh salads or green vegetables
are still a rarity in local restaurants. In addition to palacinky (cold
pancakes) filled with chocolate, fruit and cream, Slovak desserts
invariably feature apple or cottage-cheese strudel and ice cream.
In the last few years an increasing number of restaurants offering
international cuisine have sprouted up, from the omnipresent fast-food
joints and pizzerias to Bratislava's many Oriental eateries. Opening
times have been extended too - though in outlying regions closing time
will still be 9 or 10pm, the bigger cities have restaurants open till
11pm or later. Menus and prices are nearly always displayed outside.
Coffee ( káva ) is drunk black - espresso style in the big cities, but
sometimes simply hot water poured over ground coffee in the smaller
towns and villages (described rather hopefully as "Turkish" or turecká
). The cake shop ( cukráren ) is an important part of the country's
social life, particularly on Sunday mornings when it's often the only
place that's open in town. Whatever the season, Slovaks love to have
their daily fix of ice cream ( zmrzlina ), available at cukráren or
dispensed from little window kiosks in the sides of buildings.
Drink
The vineyards in the south of Slovakia produce some pretty good medium-quality
white wines , which share characteristics with their Hungarian and
Austrian neighbours. The home production of brandies is a national
pastime, resulting sometimes in almost terminally strong brews. The most
famous is slivovice , a plum brandy , originally from the border hills
between the Czech and Slovak Republics, but now available just about
everywhere.
After more than seventy years of close association with the Czechs, the
Slovaks have also learnt to love draught beer , but the pivnica , where
most heavy drinking goes on, is still less common in Slovakia than in
the Czech Republic. Slovaks tend to head instead for restaurants or wine
bars ( vináren ), which usually have slightly later opening hours and
often double as nightclubs.
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